Mission 22- Sculptural reconstruction corset

Sculptural reconstruction corset

This task was to copy Shingo Sato's"corset dress" photos on his TR Cutting school Face Book page, using the sculptural reconstruction technique.

Whilst I enjoyed the task, I dont feel that I did a very good job of it, so my report will be brief. Perhaps the cheap polyester fabric influenced my feelings about the outcome. If I have learned one thing whilst doing this TR course, it is the importance of using good quality fabrics. This is of huge importance on the outcome. I let myself down on this mission. As always it was good practice and a learning experience. You can view all the outcomes from the other finalists by going to the TR Finals 2013 Facebook page, where you can also 'vote' for your my outcome if you feel it worthy, by clicking 'like' under my photo album.

Sculptural Reconstruction Technique

Sculptural Reconstruction - Tasks 20 & 21 for TR finals

WOW! This weeks technique has me extremely inspired and excited about design ideas which are  possible using this new technique which Shingo Sato calls "Sculptural Reconstruction".
To sum it up, basically masking tape and extra pieces of fabric are added to the calico foundation, and 'sculptured' ...a sort of draping... until desired shape is achieved.
So onto my journey this week. We were given 2 tasks, both of them to reproduce our own patterns and versions Shingos photos, using the Sculptural Reconstruction technique.
The rose (task 21) was a great opportunity to learn. I was quite pleased with myself because I was able to reproduce the bodice shape without too much trouble. HOWEVER,...... While adding the petal shapes, I did not think about where my seam lines would be. So come time to cut it up and 'reconstruct' in final fabric, I had a serious problem.

First (failed) attempt

First (failed) attempt

 Once I cut it up with what I thought would be the appropriate seam lines, I realized straight away that this was a failure and I would have to start all over again!!! Why??? Have a look:

Can you see the problem? Patternmaking 101- Pattern pieces must be 'flat' in order to successfully achieve the desired shape and fit. No matter how much manipulating , shaping and forming I did, this was simply not rescue-able. So after a good nights sleep and some cooling off (GRRRR) I started again!
Actually, this  is the best thing that could have happened. Because I was able to learn more about this technique and understand more deeply how to work with it. Its important to think about where your design/seam lines will go when you are attaching the extra pieces. Thinking ahead is quite important to make this work.
Ok, so here was my second attempt.

2nd attempt pattern in progress.

2nd attempt pattern in progress

2nd attempt pattern pieces...FLAT!!

final outcome

final outcome

Now for task 20, which was an exaggerated square sleeve.

This was achieved using the same technique. I have had some experience at playing with this technique on a sleeve, when I was working on my grey spots and stripes dress    and also my Box integration jacket .
 At that stage, I was only going on my intuition, and had not yet learned this technique from Shingo.

Pattern in progress

Pattern in progress

Finished outcome

Finished outcome

Finished outcome

Finished outcome

Finished outcome

 So that sums up this week. Each week is an exciting adventure, as we never know what the task will be for the week ahead. I look forward to reporting back next week.

Accordion Collar

Accordion Collar Task 19 TR Finals

 

This task was very labor intensive, but alot of fun. We were given the mission of copying ShingoSato's "accordion collar" . Fabric selection was our own choice. The design idea is one of Shingos's, but we had to figure out the pattern ourselves. We had 4 days for this mission.

I chose to work with silk organza, and to have a colour graduation from black through 2 tones of grey ...ending in white. This project ate up the fabric, and there is over 4 metres of silk organza in this collar!!! There are 12 collars all attached together here, making  28 collar  pieces cut for this. The extra 4 pieces are for the top and bottom layers which were doubled to restrict transparency. I must say that working with silk organza was a little on the tricky side. Getting all collar pieces to line up and match exactly would be a challenge for even the most perfect seamstress. Me being far from that, it ended up not as perfect as I would have liked. I think the solution to this lies more with taking greater care in the cutting rather than just the sewing.

On with the photos.



My pattern pieces

 



This task was extremely enjoyable. It became slightly meditative, and taught me to slow down and enjoy the process/ journey, rather than trying to rush through it. The collar is detachable, so it can be worn with anything.

That sums up this weeks task for the TR finals competition.

Hope that you feel inspired by seeing my accordion collar. Be brave and have a go yourself.
Don't forget to send me photos if you do.

Mission 18 TR Masters

Mission 18 Trompe l'oeil dress with vest

 

 

This weeks task was a "COPY" task, where we were given a photo from Shingo Sato's book "Transformational Reconstruction" and told to copy it using the principles of Trompe L'Oeil technique as we have been taught.

 

This task is deceivingly difficult. Even if you know how to do this technique, don't make the mistake of thinking this is easy. It presents various challenges, mainly associated with the curves of the female form. To get the flaps to sit correctly requires careful thought regarding flap placement and shaping of bust curves. I was actually surprised at its difficulty, and what you see here is actually my second attempt. The first one just didn't sit right, and is now resting peacefully in the rubbish bin! I love it when that happens though, because it is a learning process, and Id rather make mistakes now than later!

 

So on to the photos:

 

Front pattern

Front final outcome



 

 

Front 'vest' open

Front 'vest' open

 

 

 

Notice that the "vest" is integrated into the dress.

 

Once again a great learning opportunity. I can see many applications for this technique. Mind is running overtime with ideas for designs....Ahhh....so many ideas,,,,so little time!

Until next weeks exciting mission report, why don't you have a go yourself?

If you don't know how, I believe that Shingo Sato is about to announce his plans for the 2013 "TR online course". You can keep up to date with whats happening by checking out his TR Cutting School page, where all announcements are made. I can highly recommend this course, as a way to learn TR techniques from A-Z from the master himself!

 



Trompe L'oeil with added volume

Mission 17- TR Masters

 Trompe L'oeil with added volume

 

 

It was with baited breath I awaited the task for this week, as I suspect that things are going to start to get more difficult, and continue to escalate in complexity as this competition draws closer to its end.

 

This weeks task was a continuation from last week, studying the "trompe L'oeil" (fooling the eye) technique. This time extra flare/ volume was added to the equation. We were instructed to make a dress front or back or whole dress if we had time....... speaking of time.....we were given 5 days to complete this task from beginning to end!!!!!

So I'm going to post here photos of my process of making this dress, and photos of both my working pattern and final outcome.



front pattern

front final outcome



side pattern

side final outcome



back

Back



Back pattern

back final outcome

The back 'bustle' was created by sewing 8 circular pieces in the shape below, (each doubled, thus making 4 sets)  to the lower back, and integrating them into the pattern, as taught by Shingo Sato in his technique. There were also 2 'side peplum'  pieces added. The neck also has a false collar....all integrated .

Back 'bustle' pattern piece

In the below photo you can see that all these added flares and volumes are actually integrated into the pattern, and not just "seamed" on.

Integrated added bustles and flares

I did learn a  number of lessons during this exercise. First lesson is for this technique, I believe it would be better not to use a fabric like the silk satin I used for this task. It was an absolute nightmare to work with and I don't believe was the best choice for this technique. I think a fabric which holds its shape better and doesn't have so much slip/ drape would be better. I wanted the drape factor because of the back bustle, however I will try this technique again with a heavier, not so slippery fabric and see the results.
This project was a huge challenge because of the complexity of the pattern. You need to be good at jigsaw puzzles to finish such a design. And what ever you do....don't forget to add "notches"  to your work!!!
Now I have a few days rest before beginning the next task...what ever that may be.
Perhaps my house can get a much needed clean now!
I just love designing and sewing so much I could easily work at it day and night ( as I have done over the last 5 days) and never do anything else! It does not feel like work to me, as I find it so satisfying. Finding this sort of fulfillment is important in life, and for that I am extremely grateful!