Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Sculpted rose sleeve - Mission 22

Sculpted rose sleeve - Mission 22



Using the "Sculptural reconstruction" technique, this rose was achieved by firstly drawing onto the calico sleeve roughly where I wanted the petals. These lines were then cut open, and into the gaps was inserted folded strips of fabric, which became the petals. It takes a bit of playing with thill you get it to sit just right. 
The fabric which is used for the final outcome is also quite important. This polyester satin I felt was way too slippery, and didnt hold its shape like I would have liked. I will use something better next time, but as this was an experiment, didnt want to risk it.

Calico pattern in the making





Tulip Sleeve- Mission 21

Tulip Sleeve- Mission 21

This tulip sleeve us very similar to the bamboo bodice in mission 15, but this time on a sleeve.
I wish I had taken photos of all of these tasks during the calico and pattern making stages, to give you a better idea of how I went about it. It is a little difficult for me  looking back at this now and reporting this some 6 months after I completed it to remember exactly what I did! 
The technique I used here was a kind of "sculptural reconstruction" like used for my rose top. The design lines were drawn onto a calico sleeve, these were cut, and  then pieces of fabric on the fold were attached to the cut openings on the sleeve with masking tape. This was then cut apart with care, so as not to have the seam lines visible.




Mission 20 - Crater Pocket

Crater Pocket -Mission 20

I have to admit to NOT being in love with this task. I found it difficult and don't think I did a very good job of it. Basically an 'eye' shaped pocket shape is attached to the calico using tape , and this becomes a pocket. Style lines are drawn, and then cut to create various pattern pieces.

Its similar in its technique to the "Vortex" technique here and here, which I loved doing. This one did not work so well though. Perhaps I just need to play with it more.


 



Mission 19- Accordion sleeve

Mission 19- Accordion sleeve


This task was a square accordion sleeve. I got slightly carried away with it, and was having so much fun that I also created a accordion collar, and hip line detail. Playing with this technique had my mind racing around thinking of all the different ways to apply this. So much can be done and some lovely 3d effects can be created. This is similar to the Accordion Collar I made in 2013 for the TR finals, and uses the same technique.

Here are some photos






Mission 18 of the TR Masters challenge 2014-Curved welt pockets


This task consisted of 3 different pockets...all variations of different welt pockets.

If welt pockets give you nightmares....then you'd better look away,....cause these ones are welt pockets with a big twist....in fact welt pockets from hell!!

We were given no instructions...only a set of pictures from Shingo Satos own samples. From there we had to just figure it out. Trial...error...pulling hair out, I have to admit,...this task was not easy, especially the final curved welt.

The first was a curved double welt with 2 separate pockets. Precision is important here to get both 'lips' of the welt even.



Next up was  a double welt lip with one pocket...straight line...much easier than the first example.



Finally, the real headache was the curved circle welt. With this one, the 'lips' actually overlapped with no seam, so some careful maneuvering, and manipulating the pattern was required to make this work. 



These pockets were complex to work out, but going through the process of making the patterns and figuring out how to do them was a useful process. As with all TR work, its about learning the principle of the technique, and then the detail of shape and aesthetics can be changed to whatever your mind is capable of thinking up. This project gave me confidence in welt pockets! 

Mission 17- Origami spiral skirt

Mission 17- Origami Spiral skirt


OK, so its been a long time since Ive posted.I finished all of the TR challenge tasks in 2014. Achieved my certificate from the TR master himself- Shingo Sato,  however I  have not yet written up my report on the last tasks. Better late than never...so here goes!
Mission 17 was the origami spiral skirt. 
Lines were drawn on the calico block skirt, and then these lines were cut open. Wedges of paper were added to them....thus forming the pleats. This is what the finished pattern looked like:

And when its put back together ,...pleats patiently folded....here is what the skirt looks like:





Sunday, August 3, 2014

Mission 15 and 16

Bamboo bodice and Spiral origami bodice




Bamboo Bodice






Spiral origami Bodice

 Mission # 15  was the  bamboo bodice. This is so pretty . Its basically pleats added into the seam lines to crate the soft folds. Figuring out how to put it all together and sew the seams took a little thought. There is a similar outcome in Tomoko Nakamichi's "Pattern Magic" book.











Mission # 16- The spiral origami bodice
Lines are drawn on the calico bodice where you would like the folds to be.

Paper 'wedges' are added  to create the spiral folds. At the center point where the spirals meet, extra fabric is added to allow the folds to intertwine without the raw edges being seen.

Pattern piece unfolded