Sunday, August 3, 2014

Mission 15 and 16

Bamboo bodice and Spiral origami bodice

Bamboo Bodice

Spiral origami Bodice

 Mission # 15  was the  bamboo bodice. This is so pretty . Its basically pleats added into the seam lines to crate the soft folds. Figuring out how to put it all together and sew the seams took a little thought. There is a similar outcome in Tomoko Nakamichi's "Pattern Magic" book.

Mission # 16- The spiral origami bodice
Lines are drawn on the calico bodice where you would like the folds to be.

Paper 'wedges' are added  to create the spiral folds. At the center point where the spirals meet, extra fabric is added to allow the folds to intertwine without the raw edges being seen.

Pattern piece unfolded

Missions 13 and 14

Knotted collar and Zipper dress

Knotted collar

Zipper dress
Mission 13- the knotted collar was surprisingly simple. The front and facing sections are cut longer to allow extra fabric for the knot. The extra fabric joins onto the back neck, creating the back collar.

 Mission # 14 the Zipper dress.
Inserting a zipper into a curved seam is actually alot more difficult than in looks. You are often dealing with bias fabric, which stretches like crazy. This is actually my 2nd attempt at this as the first one stretched out of shape completely. Clipping the back is important to get everything sitting properly

Mission 11 and 12

Origami Unfold and Vortex Sleeve

Origami unfold

Vortex sleeve
Of all the TR techniques I have been challenged with, mission #11 I found the most difficult for some reason. I cant explain why, I faced a complete mental blank and went about it in the longest most un logical way!! To make things worse, we had a time limit on this task of 48 hours. I definitely went into panic mode, and well.... all I can say is that Im quite embarrassed to post the photos of my out come. Since making this, we have been shown a video of how the technique is done, and I cant believe that I made a beautifully simple technique so difficult! 
This technique can be interpreted or presented in 2 different ways, so the below photos show (rather badly!) the 2 different outcomes. Dont let my bad examples put you off this technique. Other extremely talented people who are taking part in this TR challenge made some beautiful examples!

Now onto a happier outcome, The Vortex sleeve. This technique uses TR Vortex technique, and applies it to the sleeve. There are definitely 'tricks' here with regards to how you draw the spirals on the calico. If you simply draw one line, when you lay it out flat to cut the fabric, you will face overlapping pattern pieces. Part of the beauty of this piece is to have the spirals with no joins. Thought must be taken to avoid these joins.

Mission 9 and 10.

Cheated tailored collar on one pattern block &

 Crescent box integration

Cheated tailored collar on one pattern block

Crescent box integration
Its been a while since my last post, and Ive been flat out without a minute to spare. The TR tasks have been very full on and constant. We are now up to mission # 18, and Im only reporting to you on mission 9 and 10, so we have some catching up to do! Now think back and remember the details of accomplishing these tasks!
First of all, all of these missions you see me doing, are all set tasks, which we are asked to copy. In most cases we are given photos of the finished outcome, and perhaps a few photos  of the calico pattern in progress, and asked to figure out the pattern for ourselves. Through trial and error we surprise ourselves with what we are able to achieve.
So on to mission #9. This was the "cheating tailored collar on one pattern block". The whole bodice including collar is all one pattern piece. The collar piece is taped on to the calico block where we want it, and clever seam lines are chosen to make this one pattern piece. It took alot of thinking through. The collar disappears at the back .
I dont have alot to say about the making of this, but here are a few pictures which will help you see what is going on.

The pattern piece when laid out.
Now onto Mission #10- Crecent box integration
I happen to have a huge love affair with the box integration technique used in Transformational Reconstruction. I have played with this technique alot,...see my box integration jacket... and had great results in changing shape and silhouette. This is pretty much the same, but the box shape is triangular. This bodice is an extreme example. I personally would not walk around with one of these on my chest, but as with all TR techniques, its the principle of learning the technique which is important. Once you know how to do the technique, it can be adapted to unlimited applications. As Shingo Sato says,"You first need to learn the rules of the technique. Once you know know the rules, you can then change them or break them!"
Calico Pattern
Finished outcome